Sar Pass Trek

Sar Pass Trek, 2013 - A very brief travelogue “… Most of us exist for most of the time in worlds which are humanly arranged, themed and controlled. One forgets that there are environments which do not respond to the flick of a switch or the twist of a dial, and which have their own rhythms and orders of existence. Mountains correct this amnesia.” ― Robert Macfarlane The ‘cheese’ in the rat race, is a comfort zone. A climate controlled, ergonomically designed life that runs like clockwork. To abandon it, even for a short while, and lay yourself bare to the whims of nature, seems like such a non-sequitur. But, as Robert Macfarlane puts it, “mountains refute our excessive trust in the man-made. They pose profound questions about our durability and the importance of our schemes. They induce, I suppose, a modesty in us.” And this test of durability for us started in the oppressive heat of Delhi. Day 1 & 2 Delhi to Kasol Bruised by heat strokes in Delhi, and a less than co-operative AC in the bus ride from there, the sight of the Parvati River gushing through the mountains is a soothing balm. Kasol, or mini-Israel, as it is sometimes called, was the perfect destination to start our journey up the back of the mighty Himalayas. With the week ahead promising nothing more than Maggi, oats and preserved foods, the tourist friendly food in Kasol is something every trekker should bulk up on. Travel checklist: Hope? Check. Day 3 Kasol to Grahan A late start, but under a canopy of deciduous forests, our ascent towards Sar Pass began. There are few things more taunting to an out-of-breath, exhausted man in his late-20’s than the sight of a 50+ year old man (our guide) scurrying up trails with the swiftness of a rabbit. Travel checklist: Modesty? Check. A couple of hours of trekking in the dark, and we were at camp 1: Grahan. Altitude gained: 2300 feet Day 4 Grahan to Mingthatch With the last glimpses of civilization en route behind us, our trail winds up a thinning forest. A realization that dawns on every trekker in the Himalayas, is how it is more a test of your mental strength, rather than physical. High peaks and far away camps that are within the visual range, are easier to reach, while destinations hidden from view, but known only in absolutes of altitude and kilometers, seem unattainable. But stop every once in a while to take in the breath-taking panoramas around you, and a new verve sets in. Travel checklist: Motivation? Check. Altitude gained: 3000 feet Day 5 Grahan to Nagaru The first glimpses of snow at reachable distances come in. With the tree line left behind at 10000 feet, every step starts exerting more and more effort. Tip: never ask people from the mountains how far the campsite is. Or ask, but be ready for replies like “just nearby, behind that big mountain”. For them, a mountain has the same geographical standing that an apartment complex has for us city-dwellers. Snow line breached! The meadows and shrubs blend into the snowline, as if demarcating both, a finish and a start line. The finish line, of a world covered permanently with dust and mud, and the start, of a new world, where the face of the very surface you walk on changes every hour. An unpredictable environment, that compels you to keep all your senses together, all the time. Travel checklist: Being observant? Check. Altitude gained: 2000 feet Day 6 Nagaru to Sarpass, then climb down to Biskheri Waking up to a 360 degree panorama of snow capped mountains drizzled with golden sunlight. It is overwhelming pleasures like this that makes climbing mountains addictive. And this is one addiction that no one will advise you against! With clear skies giving the go ahead, the longest day of trekking commenced, and 4 hours later, we reached Sar Pass. Standing atop the Pass is a feeling best described as conflicting. Yes, there is an overwhelming sense of achievement. But at the same time, looking back at the journey, the petty troubles and muscle aches, the times you almost gave up to exhaustion and the sheer size of the peaks around you makes you feel small, modest. It’s as if the Himalayas taunt you, that you may think you’ve reached the summit, but there are several others higher than that. It taunts you to conquer, to push your limits, to test the boundaries of physical and mental abilities. And at 14000 feet, you make them a promise to return. Higher, stronger and better than you are today. These are moments of clarity and pensiveness that probably surpass the reach of meditation. The mysticism of these majestic mountains rarely escapes anyone who attempts them. Time to put a leash on the thoughts. The mountains have rules, and they are ruthless with anyone who disobeys them. The snow patch had to be covered before the ice started melting in late afternoon. The descent, punctuated by merry glissading down snow covered slopes, kept its promise of being fulfilling. When your heart is so full of snapshots from the top, every step comes to life. Travel checklist: Memories of a lifetime? Check. Double check. Final altitude: 14000 feet. They say the mountains are mercurial, unpredictable. Bright sunshine one moment and a thunderstorm brews while you blink. But it is in these sudden, passionate dances of nature, that we learn to adapt, to be prepared, and most importantly, we learn to understand. Understand, that there is a joy in the suddenness, a joy in being freed of control over events, and a culminating sense of peace in acceptance. Yes, the mountains also instill a sense of profundity that is better experienced than narrated. **P.S: A very abridged version of this appeared in Sakaal Times ( http://epaper.sakaaltimes.com/SakaalTimes/16Jun2013/Enlarge/page14.htm ). This is the full article.